Whisky Education: The New Make Spirit

Does anybody know what this is? A glass of humble, clear spirit that seems awfully out of place on a table of lovely bottles of whisky with lovely hues of gold, amber and copper. It's actually New Make Spirit, the start point of any good whisky. It is this lovely liquid that is placed into the barrels for maturation, and it is this liquid that absorbed the lovely flavours, aromas and colour from the barrels it is placed in.

So for this segment of 'Whisky Education', SGwhisky wishes to pay tribute to one of the unsung heroes of whisky, the humble New Make.

New Make Spirit, as highlighted earlier, is basically the clear liquid that is derived from the distillation process at distilleries and thereafter placed into barrels for maturation. As a product of distillation then, the New Make contains the essence and backbone of any whisky's flavour profile. Here's a few interesting examples why:

The production of New Make goes through several intricate processes, all of which contribute in its own way to differing flavours of the resultant New Make. Firstly, the barley itself differs within distilleries, and the different species/region already forms a difference right from the off. 

After the barley is left to germinate for a few days, it is then that the barley is placed on floor maltings to dry and stop the germination process. It is here that some people might be familiar with the idea of Peat.

For all you Islay lovers and self-proclaimed 'Peat Freaks' out there, this lovely compressed, decomposing plant matter is what gives your favourite Ardbeg, Laphroaig or Lagavulin that signature smoky, peaty, phenolic aroma and flavour. The reason for this though is not found in the wood! Rather it is during the drying process of barley. Peat is usually one of the items that are burnt and the resultant smoke used to dry the barley. The phenols that are created during the decomposition of the peat via combustion are what gives that smoky aroma. Similarly, due to the fact that the phenol family is huge and does have variances in flavours, it is also the peat that gives that signature heather honey aroma that Highland Park whiskies are so famous for.

One other way that flavours are introduced into New Make is also during the actual distillation process itself. After the barley is mixed with water and left to ferment (experts also contend that the composition of chemicals in the water source and the specific type of yeast too derive differences in flavour), the fermented liquid (which is actually more or less beer) is passed through a series of stills. 

Talisker Stills (Courtesy: syntheticenvironment.blogspot.com)

These big copper giants are what derives the highly alcoholic New Make spirit through a process of fractal distillation. The more volatile alcohol evaporates first, goes through the still and is cooled and condensed at the end. This process is repeated a second (and third time for some distilleries like most Irish distillers and Auchentoshan), and the middle cut is taken from the product derived, and that is... New Make! Incidentally, producers who triple distill their whisky also stress how triple distillation means a smoother whisky, just another in the long list of factors that influence New Make and the whisky derived from it.

But how does this get you flavour you ask! I haven't said a thing except load you with distillation jargon. The answer lies in the stills. Experts again state the material used, the shape and the size of the stills all matter, but the one thing that SGwhisky would like to highlight is the height of the stills. The still height has a big part to play in the character of the whisky because it determines which flavour molecules get to the top, condense and make it into the New Make. The lighter the molecules, the easier it is to get to the top, and by that account, the heavier it is the more likely that it condenses on the walls of the stills and flows back down before getting to the top. That is why the height of the stills determine which molecules are actually 'light' enough to get to the top. The stills at Glenmorangie, traditionally the tallest in Scotland, mean that only the lightest flavour molecules and gases get to the top, resulting a much lighter spirit. On the other end of the spectrum lies the famed Macallan distillery, whose shortest stills in Scotland result in a heavier spirit as heavier gases and molecules are able to reach the top and condense. Add that to the long list of factors that influence whisky flavours!

So what does New Make taste like? Firstly, it is very strong, usually around 60% in alcoholic content, so drink with caution! SGwhisky was lucky enough to have two samples of New Make to try, from the Glendronach and Tullibardine distilleries. The Tullibardine new make had notes of melon, hibiscus, rose water and honey on the nose, and had a rich malty and honey taste on the palate with a strong nuttiness at the end.

The Glendronach New Make was less fragrant but had strong notes of malt and florals. Taste wise it was malt all the way with a nice creamy finish. However, both were very very strong so drink with caution! 

So in a whisky world where much is said about wood, its impact and the new craze of wood finishes, it is easy to forget the larger contributions of this humble little liquid. That is not to say that wood is over-rated, it is one of the most important things that make whisky what it is, but it is also important to know that some classic flavours that we get from the whiskies like peat and malt are from the efforts of the New Make. 

So the next time you pick up a glass of that love Water of Life, remember the humble New Make that is invisible, hidden from view, and raise your glass to this unsung hero.